LFW 20th September 2010
20-09-2010
Meadham Kirchoff
The Topshop space is amazing! I know I’m the last with the news, as I’ve avoided going there all week and have opted to send my team of fashpackers instead. Shame on me!!
The huge platform has been turned into a bar/cafe – with lots of drinkies and a fantastic runway.
We grabbed a drink then tried to find the optimum seat. Being the first to dash to the pews we thought we’d cracked it til, the tallest and biggest of the fashion crowd opted to sit in front of us! Queue seat hoping several times!
We settled just before the start and though it seemed only giants came to Kirchoff we managed to find a few cracks to peer out at the runway.
True to form the collection was eclectic. Chiffons and lace were teamed with leather and heavy duty cottons. All the pieces had a real punk princess vibe with clashing tones of yellow, pink, lavender, khaki, red, royal blue.
We loved the cropped boxy biker jackets in dip dyed, colour run prints and the yellow and black prints.
Dresses were chiffon maxis that had a victoriana feel to them, with tiered ruffles and voluminous sleeves. There was lots of drama. Styling was excellent. Multicoloured wigs added to the rebellious stance and contrasted well with the chiffon. Sparkly shoes and vintage-esque lace collars sealed the deal. An 80’s rebellious, princess collection, with coveted biker jackets and all the right tones to welcome us into a wild spring/summer 11
Romeo Pires
Back to Vauxhall fashion scout for Romeo Pires shoot which had an interesting start. Footsteps… I’m thinking this pays reference to the dance movements that were around in the 20’s with collection that clearly was inspired or themed with mime. Both male and female models had faces painted white (typical mime make up) with brushed back frizzy hair.
I’m not sure if Romeo was experimenting with gender because minus the odd few tunics and couple of dresses, everything else in the collection could be worn by either man or woman. Footsteps had stopped now and we was listening to proper music when models in pairs graced the catwalk. A very neutral palette with a lot of white, creams, blacks and splashes of colour from prints with olive, rose pink and terracotta. Nice easy styles were seen at first with loosely fitted pantaloons held up by braces matched with ivory brogues and oversized linen shirts. This progressed into an even more less gender constructed collection with draping throughout shirts and trousers. Cuts were sharp and angular forming sculptural like pieces with draping adding softer lines. There were some contrasting textures with shirts looking like they were made out of what only I can describe as: paper mache. This calm palette progressed into prints of paint brushes forming stars on tunics and shirts to skulls arranged in a bowl like fruit all over dresses and shirts for men. Skulls were olive and digitalised onto black silk where’s as the paintsbrushes were terracotta and were on pebble coloured shirts and tunics. Towards the end of the collection we graced with swing music where pleating now became a staple. Pleated seams along trousers and shorts for men and throughout shirts for women replaced the drapery return to a once again sharp and hard look. I’m not quite sure what to make of this collection but I do know that the brogues the models wore were my favourite piece… Ooops.
Ada Zanditon
Ada is one of many designers to bill her ‘show’ as a presentation. This pretty much means a smaller venue, with a show run several times and most importantly, no seating.
We arrived early to secure the best standing positions, its all war at these events.
The silhouettes were heavily influenced by pyramids and origami.
Triangle inserts in the top and bottom of shift dresses allowed for two fabrics to be worked in together.
Body con tops, full skater skirts and a-line shifts were the shapes du jour, as well as printed maxis and some slim leg, faux leather, light blue trousers.
The origami influence became more apparent as the clothes became more 3D. A black dress with a shovel shaped front, dresses with raised pyramids standing to attention down the front, were contrasted by body con backs.
Triangle shapes appeared at shoulders of chiffon shirts and a multi pyramid, structured bolero in gold was my piece of the collection. Hair was sculptured into cones and pyramids, it was extremely intricate and suited the delicate yet bold collection. Quilting details were used to create the triangle forms. In contrast there were several more ‘easy to wear’ pieces. A full back trench/cape and skater skirt in stones was gorgeous and Ada’s perspex accessories were strong again this season.
The print (predominantly in red, mixed with cream and blue hues) reminded me of looking into a kaleidoscope and was used both on panels of dresses and for full on maxi frocks.
Other tones included cream, gold, black, light blue and stone. A strong collection with a good mix of wearable and editorial pieces.
David Koma
So another rammed venue at the BFC showspace today but somewhat understandably as David Koma and Holly Fulton ran back to back. His last collection I really loved and fell in love with this collection all over again. I didn’t care that it wasn’t overtly amazing in but respected his use for geometric shapes, panelling and the return of the skater skirt which I was quite frankly.. Bored of. The shows began with Tchaikovsky’s ballet music from lake which quickly developed into a rock beat! We was soon then graced with a skater skirt dress in pastel pinks with panels of mint green. More followed of the same genre with contrasting fabrics to edge up the ballerina look. Black leather was introduced layered skater skirts turning ballerina into warrior princess. The skirts were full and the waist were small with caps sleeves on dresses or cut out fronts and backs to add sexy femininity to the look.
Stripes of colour injected a some excitement into the soft palette yet all came to a point emphasising again on the model’s silhouette. The same applied to sharp blazers that were belted at the middle. Less and less fabric was seen as David experimented with geometric shapes and racer backs and cut outs making the collection a lot more fierce and interesting. Short dresses had chiffon tails and fronts as well as side panels replaced with mesh making this female warrior ready for battle. What’s left, some armour of course! So David Koma gave gold panels to dresses accompanied with huge gold and black cuffs along with leather bands around middles. Some embellishing was applied to fronts of dresses through flat square gems as well as the leather extending through to the tulle skater skirts giving us contrasting textures. I wonder if we’ll see another appearance of David Koma on Cheryl on this years X factor. So yes I know there are similarities to ss10.. But I don’t care, I loved it all, would wear it all. I just need a leather whip..
Holly Fulton
Running back to back with Koma, it seems that London’s new fashion generation have what it takes to fill the BFC tent.
True to form Fulton showed some incredible graphic prints. It started with a graphic, hexagon print, reminding me of shattered glass. This came in a mix of monochrome, accented by orange and decorated wide leg trousers and mini shifts.
The silhouettes were clean, favouring a-line shifts, pencil skirts, wide leg printed trousers and some gorgeous, full skater skirts and skater skirted dresses.
Aside from her usual perspex, mirror and sparkly trimmings, Fulton used an almost shag-pile, carpet like trim (a bit like the fake green grass you see at the greengrocers).
This was used a tiered trim on skirts, to create a full on cropped bomber, in black and later on it bounced down the catwalk in a bright aqua!
The prints moved on to a distorted New York sky line (repeated along and down a towering maxi) as well as a mixed up and multi coloured Empire State building. Several of the prints (aqua bases with peach accents) reminded me of circuit boards and the whole collection was a riot of colour and excitement, I didn’t want to blink for fear of missing something!
Moving away from traditional fabrics, Fulton experimented with laminated fabrics like a pvc with a perforated laser cut style design. This was done in skater skirt forms and the laminated fabric draped and flowed surprisingly well.
Calming yet bright tones of aqua, peach, yellow, blush, cream and pistachio ruled the roost at this show, but the embellishment ensured these pieces were no wallflowers!
It normally takes a designer years to cultivate a cult accessories following but Fulton is as popular for her 60’s style frocks as she is her incredible perspex and shiny jewellery. The fringed/embellished clutches and the printed box bags were the best accessories of the week and I’m now saving up til SS11 just so I can own something Fulton!
Pam Hogg
The room was packed, we queued for what seemed like hours and the celebs were out in force.
The lead of the Noisettes, Pete Burns, Jodie Harsh, Janice Dickinson, Amber Rose and Nicky Hamilton Jones.
After hiding in the loos, I was joined by Random’s (unticketed) intern ‘Ella’.
The show began and I was surprised to find that I actually wanted to buy things! Normally Hogg is way to out-there for me, but it seems the legend that is Pam is catering to a wider crowd too. The looks started albeit with gimp-fetish accessories, a great wood print on silk jerseys that formed several draped dresses and tops.
The usual Pam Hogg returned with body con jumpsuits, panelled to fit and mix in cream with gold and silver lame pieces. However also on show were some cute flirty, skater skirted dresses that were perfect to party in.
Although referencing asylums through straps and straight jacket-esque trench coats, the cream coat with brown straps was actually beautiful! Trousers featured ankle straps, as did sleeves and cuffs. Next came the cream ‘straight jacket’ jumpsuits but the tailored pockets and square shoulders referenced a fairly 70’s silhouette and actually made the crowd burst into applause, it was like my Paris Couture experience, except this time in a basement.
Skater dresses developed back bustles and models had tulle, camel toned pompoms attached to their head, but this added to the fun spirit that is Pam Hogg. While execution is meticulous the approach is forward thinking and fun. The overtones of sex were obvious, but somehow would translate well to the modern wardrobe. I loved the gold sparkly no. modelled by Daisy Lowe and the tulle pom pom knickers shown on Alice Dellal. Probably the best Pam Hogg collection I’ve seen. While remaining true to her ever so loyal fans she has brought Hogg to a whole new crowd of fashionistas.
Julien J Smith
A monochrome palette as well as mustard from Julien J Smith to begin with. Straight cuts created shift and t-shirt dresses yet puff sleeves were added to give a more feminine touch to a collection that felt slightly military. Dresses were asymmetric with cut out backs as well the use of contrasting fabrics. This then developed into more dresses and long shorts with pebbled prints in bright turquoise or warm terracotta along with more military cuts.
Now I don’t know if this is possible but somehow Julien J Smith managed to fuse both 80’s glam and futuristic together giving us metallics on blouson jackets and plenty of zips. Silver discs were another added feature glamourising this militant silhouette. The models kept in tune with the theme and hair was swept back into ponytails with added streaks of turquoise and pink. Some models even wore woven visors. Nice!
Mary Kantrantzou
Back to the Topshop space at Waterloo for Mary Katranzou. The same set up for Topshop Unique was for Mary and we were happy as the view is excellant pretty much for everyone. The models make up as really pale with pastel eyes of pink and blue. Hair was kept swept back into a half bun leaving the focus to the clothes. I presumed the collection was going to have oriental inspirations with the music which did later show through, yet what stood out for me was a person’s living room. Katrantzou’s print for her collection were living room suites of all types. She displayed this on plenty of dresses. To be honest the whole collection consisted of dresses plus two pair of shorts. The lines were really straight and predominantly vertical as well as cuts being sharp and quite square. Setting the scene were contrasting fabrics all in pastel colours. Femininising the silhouette frills and tassels took place on shoulders and hips adding curves as well as pleated chiffon extended sides to allow movement to the hard structure. Jewellery were statement pieces such candle stick holders completing the scenery print. Spicing up the pastel palette were touches of silver. Moving on from a structured look, dresses took the shape of lampshade and were embellished with crystals and tassels as well as beading. This really injected even more creativity to this already innovative collection. On the whole I was really impressed with this really interesting collection that incorporated so much yet where trends were still easy to identify.
Fashion Fringe
So finally, what everyone has been waiting for, Fashion Fringe along with John Galliano arrived at Covent Garden. A very sleek and efficient entrance was granted to everyone with a reception of champagne until the show started. Finally at about quarter to 8, were allowed downstairs to take our seats. Less people than I expected but I wasn’t complaining as I held on to my front row seat for dear life. They finally announced that they were starting. As Keisha, ex sugababe and Nicola from girls aloud were taken to their seats. Up first was Alice Palmer with a fantastic collection of knitwear in a palette of khakis, stone, indigo and greys along with haphazard pleating. A complete collection of both long and short dresses but all looking just as stunning as one another. Alice did an excellent job of having a dress where its upper clang to the body yet the bottom stood away without compromising on the pleated detail. I personally wanted her to win as I’m sure you guessed. Following Alice was Jacob Allen who went for a lighter palette of pastels pinks, oranges, butterscotches and sky blue. Chiffon was his top material and draping was his top detail, admittedly he created some stunning pieces with evidence of slight grecian inspirations. His collection also consisted of mostly dresses in both tall and short form. Models looked like pretty princesses. Lastly was Corrie Nielson who had the most couture collection of them all. She displayed really innovative designs that were almost fairy tale like. Her palette was very versatile but the tones remained muted. She experimented with shapes of the female silhouette with forming huge shoulders and very, very pronounced rear ends. I couldn’t help but looking at the model and be reminded of Little Miss Muffet who sat on her tuffet or other characters from my childhood. Understandably and very well deserved John Galliano announced Corrie Nielson the winner. As winner she recieves something like £100 000 pounds and is on main schedule for next time. I love that after they announce the winner, they hand out boxes of wagamamas for you to nibble on and have pre made alcoholic drinks for you to down. Fashion fringe just knew how to please us to a T.
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