Subcultures of Soho
02-02-2011
Being a Womenswear designer I thought it would be more of a challenge to make a Menswear video to show that I have an understanding of both men’s and women’s fashion. I have looked into 5 separate Subcultures, Trends surrounding them, Icon’s that Inspire them and Locations in which these Subcultures Frequent.
Before making the videos I asked myself – What does each outfit mean? How does it change the persons self confidence or how they present themselves within a group dynamic. Most of all I wanted to use the idea of Standing out in a Crowd. Coming to London and trying to be accepted into a Subculture or find a group which best suits you is one of the hardest things. Moving to London myself I have been a part of many different groups of friends trying to find one or two people who have personalities that best suited mine. In these video’s I could look all over London for different Subcultures but Central London is a place where all of these Subcultures can socialise within a street away without being completely segregated to their own “part of town”. You can see the influence of, for example East London’s Indie / alternative culture in night clubs such as Punk just off Oxford.
(To watch each video follow the linked title words at the end of each paragraph e.g. Soho Styling)
Video One – Soho Styling
For this first video, I have styled male model, James Gulliver in a series of 5 separate looks, from night to day on the roof of my Soho flat. The idea behind this first video is that I have completely styled the looks in my own version of trends I have seen around Soho – Soho Styling.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zm20B0ofuP0
Video Two – Personal Style
Asking a series of questions to a selection of close friends, I have tried to get an insight into what influences their own sense of Person Style.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Xir07_T5RU
Video Three – ‘Identity’
The idea for this final video is what brings the other two videos together. The thought that dressing a certain way to fit into or look good in a certain location is as easy as putting on a watch is how I would describe it. It’s about dressing in a way that suits but putting your own twist on it and being true to your own ‘Identity’. I hope you like the finished result. 😀
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVDZFzd5fw
Breakdown of Looks
Look One – Regent Street and Caraby Street
For this look I have gone for soft but stylish. Stonewashing jeans gives the denim, usually a quite Ridged Fabric soft looseness. With the Jumpers I tried to represent the Cashmere boutiques on Regent Street.
Look Two – Soho Square
For this look I have tried to mix Tailoring into a casual day look with a Striped Jacket. The leather Converse Give the outfit Expense without being too pretentious. I have accessorised the jacket with Crystal encrusted Frogs from OMYGOD Fashion Accessories, Soho.
Look Three – Old Compton Street – Gay influence
For this look I took inspiration from the Gay Culture in Soho. This community alone has so many different sexual-subcultures ranging from Twink to Gimp. The look I have gone for is a stylish night look in contrast to the usually topless day look.
Look Four – London ‘Scene’ – Day and Night
For this look I mainly took influence from military but gave it a bit of a Punk flavour. The necessary tight as possible, black skinny jeans accompanied with a customised Sex Pis (tols) t-shirt for a relaxed but stated day look. I accessorised with a simple neck chain. The alternative to this was a ladies Huston tee, vintage coat and customised Crystal encrusted Aviators for an alternative night look.
Look Five – Urban Influence
For this final look I took inspiration from the more Urban Influences in Soho. You notice, especially in the Heart of Soho that as soon as the sun goes down that a whole new sense of style comes into play. The lines get looser and the colours darker. They use how they dress to blend in with both their friends and the night.
And Finally – Location
As I asked the other people in the videos to style themselves in whatever they would usually wear if they were going to the part of Soho which I filmed them I thought I would get James to come with me and photograph him in the outfits which I styled for him in the same locations.
Day Looks
Carnaby Street is the perfect location for a ‘Slave to Fashion’ Shopper Where as somewhere like Soho Square you can go and relax with your friends but still keep it stylish.
Day into Night
The scene in the ‘Identity’ Video where Bruce changes into James is representing the transition of day into night. I used Old Compton Street to represent this as to me even when it’s the day time OC Street has a good night time atmosphere.
Early Morning – Tisbury Court – ‘Hooker Alley’
Living above the brothel in Central London’s most central alley way I have seen many things out my bedroom window at all times of the day but most of the activity takes place between 3am-6am. I think the quality and the atmosphere of the photo on the left really give you an idea of not only how the people dress here but how you see them.
Interview with James Gulliver
Name: James Robert Gulliver
Age: 19
Relationship status: In a Relationship
Occupation: Model and aspiring Fashion Photographer
What is your style? Don’t have one.
What subcultures do you take inspiration from?
No sub-culture in particular. If I see something someone is wearing and like it or how they wear it I would perhaps try to work it into my own wardrobe. I wouldn’t want to dress like one sub-culture in particular. If I saw a Goth with a nice coat or jeans that I could see myself wearing I would buy them but I wouldn’t want to be catagorised. I like individuality.
Who is your style Icon?
Alexa Chung, not that id want to dress like her. I just like her style.
What would you say is the ultimate wardrobe must have and why?
A nice jacket / boot / sunglasses, because you can wear them every year.
What is the best thing you have seen someone else wearing?
Britney, Crystals, Toxic.
What is the worst fashion faux pa you have seen to date?
I really don’t like faded out ‘crazy colour’ in hair.
Where in the world most influences you?
London, It’s got the best style.
What do you think looks good on a guy?
I think it’s good when a guy knows how to dress himself with clothes that suit their body shape and style. Wearing things that are in style just for the sake of it is pointless.
What most inspires you?
Art that you would find in old Catholic Church’s and Tudor art. I like how even though someone can be in pain in a painting they are still beautiful.
Future plans?
Having spent the summer modeling and doing some Fashion Week Catwalks, I am now concentrating on building a portfolio and organizing photo shoots as I plan to study Fashion Photography at university in September.