Fitting fashion better – By Ed Gribbin

 What are the biggest challenges consumers face when dealing with fit?

The biggest is inconsistency: in sizing between brands, among styles in a single brand, even within the same style in the same size within a brand. Consumers don’t understand that brands and designers actually intend for different styles to fit differently, but the brands and designers generally do a poor job of marketing or communicating their intent to shoppers. Even when they try, they often don’t communicate fit consistently — when a shopper sees ‘classic fit’ or ‘contemporary fit’ or ‘city fit’ or ‘slim fit’, do they really always mean the same thing? Nike and adidas both have a ‘slim fit’, for instance, but they don’t mean the same thing and can fit, in the same size, like two different sizes. And then, there’s the actual sewing tolerance—brands don’t tell consumers this, but they have manufacturing tolerances that are generally half the difference between two sizes. So, one size 8 can be a little big, another can be a little small, they will both pass quality control and one will fit like a 6 and the other like a 10; no wonder consumers are confused.

Shopping for fashion was, at one time, supposed to be fun, “retail therapy”. But more and more shoppers are time starved and cash-strapped but they are still looking for what they need (and want) to freshen their wardrobes. What they’re getting, though, is frustrated.

Part of the challenge lies with the brands to tighten up standards and enforce better manufacturing compliance. Part lies in the basic communication and marketing of fit. And part lies with the consumer to be aware of the minefield they enter when they go shopping. Savvy shoppers can tiptoe through quite well, knowing which brands they can trust, which ones they have to try on every time, and which ones they love so much, they will ‘settle’.

How is the ‘fit’ technology you are developing benefitting consumers?

We are working at solving this problem (actually, bad term…..this problem will never be “solved” in the conventional sense, because people’s bodies and their preferences, their idea of what looks good on them, is incredibly diverse), actually minimizing the problem, by going at it from both ends. On one side, we use our body scanning, analysis, consulting and 3-d visualization technologies to help brands better understand the sizes and shapes of real people and then build clothes to match those sizes and shapes. On the other side, we are working on an app that will help consumers ease the frustration and know exactly what size to buy or order in any brand.

We understand that fashion is, to a large degree, an art; but we are trying to use technology, combined with experience and good old-fashioned common sense, to bring some science in and make fit more accurate, consistent and reliable for consumers and brands alike. If you think about it, fit is just as much an issue for brands and retailers as it is for consumers; it’s the number one reason for returns, one of the major factors in markdowns (and lost profits), and the single biggest factor in conversion rate at retail — if it doesn’t fit, she’s not going to buy it, no matter how much she likes it.

Can you give an example of how a garment, say women’s dresses, have been revolutionized by Alvanon technology?

We work with one of the largest dressmakers in America — David’s Bridal. Fit is absolutely critical to its customers on their special day. Ten years ago, I was told by someone (no longer there) that fit was not a problem because they altered every dress to fit, and they made so many alterations that ‘fit’ was actually its own profit centre. The relatively new CEO at the time (current CEO, Bob Huth) knew that ‘fit’ through alterations was not actually a profit centre, but, as he called it, a “customer disservice”. He set out to do the research (we body-scanned brides-to-be in 38 cities to build an actionable, relevant database), develop a better fit standard, and then implement the tools and processes in his supply chain to ensure that alterations would go down, and more customers would be satisfied. David’s, to this day, does continual research and analysis to ensure that they have the best fit, for brides, wedding parties, proms and any special occasion, and fit is one of the key reasons for their great success.

What are the hardest garments to fit and why?

The three “toughest-to-fit” garment products are jeans, bras and swimwear (not necessarily in that order…..every individual has a different ranking, but those are always the top three). Those categories, unlike many tops, sweaters, jackets, etc…, have a number of huge hurdles when it comes to satisfying a shopper. Number one is probably the aesthetic factor, how does it make me look? Then, there is the support factor; is the product doing what it’s supposed to be doing for me on my body. And then, there’s the comfort factor—can I actually be comfortable while the product is both working well and making me look good. Add to the process the fact that you can’t legislate ‘taste’ (meaning what one person thinks fits them great, might be disputed by 90%of independent observers), and you can see why ‘fit’ can be tough to solve.

What are the particular ‘fit’ challenges for lingerie?

This could be an article, no actually, a book by itself. Back to the previous question, though, bras, in particular, have to provide support, comfort and aesthetic appeal (not necessarily in that order for every individual). Bras are a miracle of engineering to begin with, to pull all of that off, but they remain challenging for consumers for two reasons (at least). One, people, and breasts, are incredibly diverse; no woman has two the exact same size. And, women are not created at specific band and cup sizes; they are everywhere in between. Bra manufacturers, to their credit, throw more sizes at solving the problem than any other category (most clothing brands offer 6-8 sizes at most, while most bra brands offer upward of 30 to 40 or more sizes); and they have made great strides in adjustability features over the years. Two, most women don’t know what size they are to start with, and most end up buying the wrong size. To that end, many upper-end brands and retailers offer fittings, but how many women have (or take) the time for that with their busy lives? And, there is no consistency among brands, no standards. Lastly, there has been a trend (common in other categories but only recent in intimates) toward vanity sizing. Supposedly, the average woman (B cup) would love to be a C cup, and now, thanks to the wonders of marketing and labelling, they can be (without surgery).

The bottom line is that ‘fit’ is a complex issue but by taking a close look at the actual consumers who wear your product you can gain an insight and understanding of their body shape that will drive your fit strategy.

For more information on sizing and fit issues and solutions visit www.Alvanon.com

Ed Gribbin, President, Alvanon