LFW September 2017 – Highlights Day 5
The Minki presentation was titled: ‘Are we the dreamers that dream and live the dream?’ (a brilliant quote!) and centred on the concept of not forfeiting your dream for the sake of mundane reality. Texture was rife, with gathered macs, swathes of tulle ruched sporadically, and strips of pulled fabrics sewn across dresses in wonderfully abstract formations. A block-colour scheme of pink, blue, white, orange and green was complemented by the white backdrop of giant foam-shapes, while the model’s faces were painted yellow and white seeping across them. The show-piece of the collection had to be the beige sleeveless trench with huge exaggerated shoulders in pink (that almost resembled mini-wings).
Jamie Wei Huang too featured very similar layered, structured shoulders, which were instead attached to backwards denim jackets in blue and brown and subtly frayed at the edges. White stitching was key feature of the very well made collection, as were the drop pom-pom earrings, which accompanied the majority of the looks. The theme of circles was further embraced as many of the jackets and coats featured circular cut-outs at the back of the pieces, pulled tight with cord; high-waist wide-leg denim trousers too had a semi-circle cut-out at the waistband – all adding an extra twist on the otherwise simple (but beautiful) pieces. This collection was so good because it managed to reinvent classic pieces originally – which is hard due to the nature of the fashion industry, which is based almost solely upon reinvention – with live piano music further adding to the ambience of the show. This is a collection I could very easily (and very much want to) see-now-buy-now from.
Jamie Wei Huang
Tata Naka’s girls all wore full purple lips, drop gold earrings and ribbon weaved into their up-dos – exuding glamour just as the paintings on the presentations set of the National Portrait Gallery did behind them. Deep V-necks, puff sleeves and midi lengths all furthered this image of elegance in white, yellow, green, pink and stripy cotton.
The ON/OFF show ended the last day on a high, with Jack Irving’s costume-esque creations the stand-out offering of the show. Thigh-high boots, corset body-suits and giant triangular headdresses gleamed in strong green/gold/blue metallic. Giant blow-up structures enveloped model’s bodies, and iridescent pyramids were grouped together and fashioned as wings. One particularly striking look was an explosion of turquoise metallic balls protruding from the model’s body in all directions, pushing the sometimes stiff notion of what fashion is. It truly was a one off.
Jack Irving finale image courtesy of ON|OFF
“This season has been amazing, such a high standard of creative talent on show. I would have to say Irene SJ Ju, Jamie Wei Huang and Jack Irving were my personal favourites because for each the vision of the designer was so cohesive and the collection was original and presented as more of an experience (including great music and models with personality).”
Words by India Hunnikin