In many ways London is the baby of the four main fashion capitals. New York has commercial appeal, Milan in-your-face branding and Paris has a bit of everything; a solid history, top fashion houses, a broad range of designers, plus a gruelling schedule to boot. So where does that leave London? “London is making a name for itself as the place to discover the new,” says fashion journalist and talent scout - Andrew Tucker.

Indeed, London does offer some of the most interesting and innovative collections around but as we’ve come to know over the years, it’s that period a few years down the line that becomes crucial for a label.

On one side we have the likes of - Betty Jackson, Gharani Strok, Paul Smith, and Preen etc… that are established and remain loyal to the capital.  On the other side designers such as - Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Matthew Williamson and Roland Mouret have benefited by leaving and showing in the bigger arenas of Milan, Paris and New York.

And then there are a high proportion of designers that just fall off the schedule without a trace. They go bust and either end up working for other design houses or just disappear. Time and time again the industry is accused of a lack of support. Remember how the press ranted and raved about the likes of Hamish Morrow, Markus Lupfer and Russel Sage? All exciting and innovative designers no longer to be seen on the London Fashion Week schedule.

In a recent interview ex-House of Jazz designer Pablo Flack was asked ‘what advice he would give to an aspiring fashion designer?’ He replied “You might as well take all your money and flush it down the toilet!” Harsh, but fashion is a tough old trade that needs plenty of spot-on financial and business advice for it to flourish.

Step in Andrew Tucker, a true industry expert that understands how the game of fashion works. Andrew is currently responsible for some of the New Generation designers emerging on the scene. It’s a job that takes him all over the world – fresh back from Russia he spotted his two latest finds at Moscow Fashion Week. Andrew, along with an industry panel of 25 decides each season which designers will receive sponsorship.

“I can confirm two young designers - that are also included in this exhibition (The London Look) will receive New Generation sponsorship in February, one’s Giles Deacon and the other is Ashish,” declares Andrew. As for the rest we’ll have to wait for an announcement later in the year.   

Top Shop’s New Generation sponsorship is indeed a great success it gives young designers the chance to show or exhibit to an international audience. “New Generation provides a great start for young businesses less than 3 years old, what I’m working on at the moment is a new sponsorship deal that will fund and support labels that have been going for 3 years or more,” says Andrew.

The plan is to secure a decent amount of funding from the City that will provide sponsorship to ensure label growth and longevity. Andrew also hopes this type of committed sponsorship will bring some of the big names back to the capital, the McCartney’s and McQueen’s of this world. There’s already a buzz about London and if Andrew Tucker gets his way it may well become the biggest draw of the fashion week season.

Andrew Tucker is the author of ‘The London Fashion Book,’ and has collaborated on several other fashion publications.

The London Look exhibition is on at the Museum of London, London Wall, London EC2Y 5HN until 8th May 2005

By JoJo Iles 

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