Day two at Copenhagen Fashion Week and out of all the shows we have seen today there have been two that have really stood out.

Both using a non colour palette of predominantly black but creating two very different atmospheres.

The first was Barbara I Gongini, who last season was declared the ‘new generation brand’ within sustainable design. I Gongini’s collection was dramatic…raw…dark.

Androgynous, white faced and crazed looking models seemed to aimlessly wonder up and down the catwalk in an unconventional manner. Hair was nest like and twisted dramatically to suit the mood. Even the footwear demanded attention, with torturous spikes protruding the toes or black tape wrapped around the legs creating the illusion of a pvc boot. 

The collection was conceptual, looking at possibilities of the square. Garments were deconstructed and experimental focusing on texture and using a wide spectrum of materials. Plastic, wool, metal, leather, fur and knits all worked together producing tactile form and strong silhouettes.

The Nordic influence was strong here – cold, dark and raw yet ingeniously constructed and deconstructed making an intelligent collection.

The second show could not have been more different. NOIR’s catwalk show took place in a grand hotel room, in the round, so again the conventions of runway were immediately eliminated. As I scanned the front row I spotted Colin McDowell, this poised for a collection not to be missed.

As the lights went down, seductive French music provided the atmosphere. In the centre of the round a scene had been set with a rail of garments and a series of chairs. The models then entered the room…seductive, glamorous beauties all scantily clad in nothing but black lingerie. They moved slowly oozing both sophistication and sexiness – a stark contrast from I Gongini’s models!
 

As they circled the rail of garments they started to help each other get dressed, it felt strangely voyeuristic. In turn they donned a complete outfit, walked around the room and left only to return semi naked to repeat the cycle again.

Entitled ‘Decanting Decadence’ it was opulent and luxurious, piecing together the bare essentials for a party and cocktail collection. Lustrous silks, soft washed leather and transparent lace were crafted together to exude luxury. The focus was on the sleeves, extravagant shapes framing long, lean silhouettes. Lace and frill trims were applied in abundance offering a transparency against the cottons and silks. A tuxedo inspired soft leather jacket then ballerina lace dress with leather corset toyed with masculinity and femininity.