Day one at LFW and Rivkie Baum reports live on the first show from Paul Costelloe...

The BFC tent was literally full to capacity for the first show of LFW. Paul Costelloe, always the first off the starting blocks showed a truly trendy collection. The first section reminded me of medieval punks. Gold brocade teamed with black leather leg warmers, huge leg of mutton sleeves, exposed zips and graduated hem lines (short at front long at back) made these girls the queens of the catwalk strutt! Hair was huge and rounded and eyes were kept smokey to give off a rebel vibe.

The collection swiftly moved from beautiful brocade to wintery checks in shades of black/grey and brown, really reminded me of highland winters and Scot heritage. Coats were cut in frock shapes and floor sweeping belted numbers gave off a slightly spy feel. Mini check dresses had leather bustiers again referencing the eighties.

Skirts and coats also featured huge bell shape skirts, again mixing eighties and medieval inspirations. The third phase of the collection showed of pink/purple retro floral prints and dark chocolate brown fur coats that had a real vintage feel. The final stage showed silver lames twisted into evening dresses and cut into androgynous jackets. Menswear popped up in the form of autumnal toned suiting and satin edged evening wear. A commercial but intricately designed collection.

Rivkie Baum